On the Trail Illegal Hunters Illegally Trapping China's Protected Songbirds.
The conservationist's vision darts across miles of dense fields, looking for signs of life in the pre-dawn darkness.
He utters a hushed tone as we try to find a concealed position in the open area. In the distance, the huge urban center of Beijing has yet to wake. As we wait, we hear only the quiet of the morning.
Suddenly, as the sky turns a shade lighter ahead of sunrise, we hear footsteps. The hunters have arrived.
Trapped
Across the heavens, billions of birds, some tiny enough that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have utilized the long summer days in Siberia, or Mongolia, consuming insects and fruit. As the year comes to a close and icy winds bring the initial freeze of winter, they head to more temperate climates to nest and feed.
There are over 1500 bird species, accounting for thirteen percent of the global population – more than 800 of those are migratory birds. Four of the nine major migration routes they follow converge in China.
This particular field where we were, on the outskirts of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – farther in and the urban landscape offer few options to rest among towering rows of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "mist nets", so thin you can hardly spot them.
The one we nearly walked into was strung across a large section of the field and propped up with bamboo poles. At its center, a meadow pipit was struggling frantically to free his legs, but the more it moved, the more its feet got ensnared.
This was a meadow pipit, a species under protection in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – which signifies if its numbers are thriving, so is its environment.
Hunting the Hunters
Silva, who is in his 30s, carries out this mission for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many nights of sleep to set songbirds free, and he has spent the last decade urging the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"In the early days, no-one cared," he says.
So he recruited volunteers who did care and formed a group called the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He organized public meetings and brought in the heads of the relevant authorities. These small and persistent acts of persuasion have shown results. The police realized that catching poachers also led to tracking down other kinds of illegal operations.
"We found our goals were partially aligned," Silva says, while pointing out that implementation remains inconsistent.
His passion for avian life began during childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He recalls exploring the grasslands on the city's edges where he found birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought millions of rural workers to cities. This rapid urbanisation meant grasslands were seen as land for construction, not sanctuaries to preserve.
The change stunned Silva. The grasslands began to shrink, as did the habitats they supported.
"I made the choice back then to dedicate myself to preservation and I chose this direction," he says.
This has not made for an simple journey. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers discovered he was under scrutiny by Silva and retaliated.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who surrounded me and assaulted me," Silva recalls. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his army of volunteers over the years. This work requires covert operations and lost sleep. Silva says not many are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to solve this big problem, you must devote yourself wholeheartedly. You can't do it part-time."
He says fundraising pays for some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan annually – but funding has declined because of the slowing economy.
So he has adopted new ways to hunt the hunters.
He analyzes aerial photos to find the trails created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' flight paths and looks for areas where they may rest. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can catch hundreds of small birds during darkness.
"Certain prized species sell for a premium," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
Although there are wildlife laws in place, Silva argues the penalties to deter the activity do not exceed the financial benefits of trapping and trading songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This dates back to the Qing dynasty. Nobles and elites would build elaborate bamboo cages to display their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among retired men in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people may not understand they are breaking the law, or grasp that so many more birds had to die in a trap so they could buy a caged bird.
"This generation often lacked enough to eat in their youth. Now with some disposable income, they have inherited the practice of caging birds," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was little opportunity to raise awareness about ecology. Once adults' values are set, they're extremely difficult to change."
Disrupted
On a long low wall in Beijing, a vendor has several small cages with tiny twittering birds.
Another man is positioned near a nearby market holding a bird cage shrouded in a dark cloth. He tells passers-by quietly that his songbird is rare, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an old Beijing where small unofficial traders have established a niche trade.
The area alongside the water extends over several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were shoppers browsing everything from vintage jewellery to dentures.
Information suggested that wild songbirds could be purchased in a small park. The location was not concealed.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a group of elderly ladies were performing a fan dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had congregated with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were covered in dark cloth.
But today there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were interviewing the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his